3) The old allure of Dolceforte
“Journeying is the food of the mind”: I don’t know if I invented this phrase, or whether it was coined by someone more clever and ...
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GUIDE TO ITALIAN LIVING
‘Nduja in Spilinga: history and myth
The first thing you need to know about ‘nduja is its pronunciation. All Italians read it as nduya, but the “j”...
September impression
More than any other, September is the month of transition. Technically speaking, two thirds of it is still summer, but our thoughts have taken a turn ...
Pappa al pomodoro
When I received an email from the powers that be, asking me to do a piece for our great magazine on nothing less than pappa al pomodoro, there was onl...
Panzanella
Tuscan pane sciocco (saltless bread) is used in a plethora of everyday bread-based dishes, especially once it’s past its best. Italy has tr...
Tagliatelle with spareribs and bardiccio
For every time we’ve sweated through a heatwave, in this bizarre summer of ours, a thunderstorm has arrived and cleared the air. And with the gr...
Don’t be a boar!
Can the wild boar be considered one of the cornerstones of Tuscan cuisine?[Stefano P. Frassineti, 2021] To misquote the great Tuscan comic Carlo...
Fish & Chips, Tuscan style
Food certainly isn’t what comes to mind when I think back to the twenty-year-old who left his village near Florence and came to spend nearly a y...
Luca Cesari: the story of pasta in ten dishes
We can’t tell you which ten dishes Luca Cesari discusses in his book. And we’re not going to tell you why "everything you know – or ...
Edible spring
È primavera svegliatevi bambine…. sang the great Alberto Rabagliati in the mid-twentieth century. Spring: the season of reawakening. Aft...
Schiacciapizza: the inside story
Schiacciapizza – what on earth is that? That was the very response – albeit expressed in slightly fruitier language – from the chefs...
Green bean pesto
Long before it was fashionable, the war against waste was a necessity. From people’s store cupboards, where recipes were born of need and what w...
50 shades of Pasta and Beans
It seems that even Cicero was a glutton for them. Of course, we can’t know how true that is, partly because the idea of pasta at the time of the...
Polenta: the food of the people
Say "polenta", and like an automatic reflex your thoughts turn to great platters of the steaming stuff, an edible sculpture of warm, inviting yellows,...
Testaroli
The Lunigiana is a gorgeous area between Liguria, Emilia and Tuscany, to which it officially belongs. Historically, it was one of the first parts of I...
Castagnaccio
Castagnaccio, migliaccio, baldino. So many names for such an old, traditional dessert, as beloved in Tuscany as in all the regions where chestnuts thr...
Ribollita
For a Tuscan cook, talking about ribollita is like telling a family story, like chatting at the table, talking by the fireplace or confiding in a frie...
Recipes: Insalata Russa
Rufina, December 1971 - Granny, why’s it called "Russian salad"? - What a question! Because they make it in Russia. - The Russia where Yuri G...
Brown rice with roast chestnuts, bardiccio and Chianti Rufina
This rich dish with strong, bold flavors is perfect for the final foggy autumn days as we crunch through the leaves into the winter.Make a small cut o...
Recipe: Cannellini bean flan with porcini mushroom sauce
Here’s a recipe that fully interprets all the joy of Living with Gusto in the fall!A few words about cooking beans: once upon a time, beans were...
Recipes: Spaghetti alla chitarra with green tomatoes, pork cheek and fresh chilli pepper
This generous recipe combines the strong tang of pork cheek and chilli pepper with the fresh and gentle taste of green tomatoes. The final embrace of ...
Recipe: Baccalà alla livornese
A delicious inland Tuscan dish… yes, inland because, in Tuscany, “baccalà” (salt cod) has always regarded as an in...
Recipe: Rigatoni with bell peppers and bardiccio
Let’s start with the full name of this recipe: Senatore Cappelli durum wheat rigatoni with bell pepper cream, bardiccio and Pecorino delle ...
Cantucci: simple but super good
The story behind these simple but super good biscotti has long been debated lively and peacefully (not always!), with Tuscans in general and Pratese i...
Panzanella
Panzanella is a mainstay on the summer menu at Ruffino’s restaurant, the Locanda. We write it with a capital letter and without worrying about o...
Fagiuoli all’uccelletto
As is always the case with the oldest recipes, the origins of its name are lost in the mists of time. Even at the time of famous food historian Pelleg...
Bardiccio, pane sciocco and a glass of Chianti from the flask
Whenever we used to go to the butcher’s, I would always go with a certain reverence, even making sure I was wearing clothes less worn and frayed...
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